Granny Ripple Afghan

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Approximately 54 x 82 ins.

(For Beginners or Intermediate Crocheters)

MATERIALS: Columbia-Minerva Nantuk 4-ply (4 oz. ball)-1 each Colors A and B; 2 each Colors C, D and E; 3 each Colors F and G.
Nantuk colors shown are (A) Dk Navy, (B) Mauve, (C) Raspberry, (D) Lt Rose, (E) Cornflower, (F) Med Blue, (G) Navy.
CROCHET HOOK: Size H-or size needed to obtain gauge given below.

GAUGE: Measured across straight edges-
Each 4 rnd sq = 4 ins.
Each strip = 7 ins. wide.
Take time to check gauge.

NOTES: Work all rnds from right side throughout. Leave a 4" end when joining and ending colors. Secure ends and work in on wrong side as work progresses.

FIRST STRIP: (Make 6.)

BASIC SQUARE: With A, ch 4, sl st into first ch to form ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 1 dc in ring, ch 2, [2 dc in ring, ch 2] 3 times, join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg-ch; there are 4 dc clusters with ch-2 between. Fasten off.

Rnd 2: With sl knot lp of B on hook, beg in any ch-2 sp, yo hook and work [2 dc, ch 3 for corner, 2 dc, ch 1] in each ch-2 sp around, join with sl st in top of first dc. Fasten off.

Rnd 3: With sl knot lp of C on hook, beg in any ch-3 corner sp, yo hook, * work 2 dc, ch 3,2 dc, ch 1 all in corner sp, 2 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; rep from 3 times more; join with sl st in top of first dc. Fasten off.

Rnd 4: With sl knot lp of D on hook, beg in any ch-3 corner sp, yo hook, * work 2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 1 all in corner sp, [2 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] twice; rep from * 3 times more, join with sl st in top of first dc. Fasten off.

These 4 rnds form basic sq which should measure 4 x 4".

SECOND SQUARE: Work first 3 rnds of basic sq.

Rnd 4 - Joining Rnd: Work around first 3 sides in same way as rnd 4 of basic sq, work 2 dc, ch 1 in 4th corner; to join sqs, work a sl st into wrong side of any corner sp of first sq; ch 1, work 2 dc, ch 1 in 4th corner of 2nd sq, [2 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] twice, join with sl st in top of first dc. Fasten off.

Working same as 2nd sq, work 7 sqs more, joining last sq worked in corner opposite last joining. There is now a row of 9 sqs joined at opposite corners, forming diamonds. Each sq will be referred to as a diamond and each corner will be referred to as a point throughout remaining direction.

Note: Take care not to twist diamonds on first rnd of edging.

Edging - Rnd 1: With lp of E on hook, beg in first point on upper edge, yo hook, † * work 2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc in point, [ch 1, 2 dc in next ch-1 sp] 3 times along left side edge of diamond, skip next 4 dc (2 dc each side of descending point), [2 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 3 times along right side edge of next diamond *; rep between *'s to within last point on upper edge; around outside edges of last diamond, [work 2 dc, ch 3,2 dc, ch 1 in point and 2 dc, ch 1 in each ch-1 sp] twice; beg in first point on lower edge, rep from † across lower edge and around outside edges of beg-diamond, join with sl st in top of first dc. Fasten off.

Rnd 2: With F, rep rnd 1. Fasten off.

Rnd 3: With G, rep rnd 1. Fasten off.

SECOND STRIP: (Make 5.) Work a total of 8 joined sqs and complete border same as first strip.

JOINING: Join strips from right side using a blunt needle and G. Matching sts and keeping seam as elastic as the fabric, sew seams with an overhand st working through the back lp of each st.

First and Second Strips: With right sides facing, lay a short strip along lower edge of long strip so that first and last points on lower edge of long strip fall at center top edge of first and last diamonds on short strip. Sew edges tog.

Second and Third Strips: With right sides facing, lay a long strip along lower edge of short strip just joined so that first and last points on upper edge of long strip fall at center lower edge of first and last diamonds on short strip. Sew edges tog as before.

Alternately joining short and long strips, sew rem 9 strips tog in same

EDGING: From right side, join G with sl st in first point on upper right edge, ch 1, † work 3 sc in point, * 1 sc in each dc and 1 sc in each ch-1 sp to within 1 dc of descending point (10 sc in all), draw up a lp in each of next 2 dc, yo and through all 3 lps on hook (a dec made), work 10 sc in same way to next point, work 3 sc in point *, rep between *' s across ending in last point on upper edge; along side edge, working 1 sc in each dc and 1 sc in each ch-1 sp, sc to first point, work 3 sc in point, ** sc to joining seam, draw up a lp in each sp on either side of seam, yo and through all 3 lps on hook, sc to next point, work 3 sc in point **, rep between **'s ending in last point on side edge, sc to first point on lower edge; rep from † along rem 2 edges, join with sl st in first sc. Fasten off.

TASSELS: (Make 18.) Wind G loosely around a 4" piece of cardboard about 15 times. Run an 8" length of yarn under one end of bundle and tie securely leaving ends for sewing; slip bundle off cardboard. Wind an 8" length of yarn tightly around bundle 1" below tie, knot ends and work into tassel; cut untied end. Sew a tassel at each point along upper and lower edges.

Steam afghan lightly.


Other great patterns from Gallery of Afghans, Book 688:

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